Drei Tage in Fes

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Als Schlussstrich für die drei Monate „freie Zeit“, hab ich mich spontan entschieden, noch einmal Fes genauer zu erkunden, die Stadt, die wir bei unserer Marokko Reise 2006 kurz besucht hatten. Schon vor einem Jahr hatte ich spontan ein inneres drängeln, noch einmal Fes zu besuchen, diesmal etwas intensiver. Wie es wohl wäre, bei 30°C auf einem Mofa durch die Landschaft zu preschen und so viel mehr zu sehen? Einfach mal nichts tun, einfach mal frei sein?

Gedacht, getan.

Medina

Wir beginnen unsere Reise dort, wo die letzte Reise aufgehört hat: Beim Bab Bou Jeloud, ein blaues Eingangstor zur Medina, der Altstadt. Laufen wir doch gleich los. Begleitet mich akustisch auf dem Spaziergang durch die Medina:

(Aufgenommen mit einem 3D-Mikrofon; Kopfhörer aufsetzen!)

Bei Minute 2:00 kommt uns ein Esel beladen mit Gasflaschen entgegen:

Etwas lauter zu und her geht es bei den Märkten:

Wieder kreuzt ein Lastesel. Der Eselführer ruft laut: „Aus dem Weg! Achtung!“ Händler rufen und bieten ihre Waren feil. Hähne kikerikiien.

Gesang der Minarette

So tönt es, wenn die Minarette losheulen. Aufgenommen auf der Terasse im Restaurant Le Kasbah in der Abendzeit.

Auf Erkundungstour

Offiziell kann man keine Töfflis mieten in Fes. In Marrakech geht das, aber hier nicht. Naja, offiziell. Beim Nachtessen hat sich Abdul Salam, der in dem Restaurant serviert, zu mir gesetzt und ich hab ihm von meinen Plänen erzählt. „For two days?“ „One. Maybe two.“. Und es läuft, wie es immer in Marokko läuft: Mit dem Geldbeutel winken, und der Marokkaner hat einen Onkel, dessen Stiefhalbbruder jemanden kennt, der da vielleicht weiterhelfen kann.

Ich kann das Mofa von seinem Bekannten ausleihen. Am nächsten Tag steht es bereit. Im Eintausch gegen meine ID kriege ich Schlüssel und Versicherungspapiere. Alles geregelt.

Kann losgehen!

Eine spontane Erkundungstour. Genau so wie ich mir das vorgestellt habe! Die einzige Navigationshilfe ist der Wegpunkt der kleinen Garage, zu der ich das Töffli wieder zurückbringen muss. Gespeichert auf meinem kartenlosen GPS. So muss das sein! Wer braucht schon Karten – da ist doch der Reiz umhin.

Ich gebe Gas. Es fährt los, und der Wind pfeift mir schon ziemlich schnell um die Ohren. Geschwindigkeit auf dem Tachometer: 0km/h. 😉 Marokkanische Bauweise. Wer braucht schon eine Geschwindigkeitsanzeige? Später habe ich dann per GPS 88.8km/h als Höchstgeschwindigkeit registriert. Das war aber auch bergab.

Ich finde den Verkehr in Marokko übrigens sehr entspannend. Von aussen mag das stressig aussehen, aber da es faktisch keine Verkehrsregeln gibt, oder sich eh niemand dran hält, schaut jeder ein bisschen auf jeden, und so kann man sich voll auf alle Verkehrsteilnehmer konzentrieren und muss nicht schauen, welche Linie oder welches Schild man da wieder übersehen hat. Oh, da gibt es Mittelstreifen? Naja, die sind zur Dekoration da und fast nicht mehr sichtbar, weil eh alle darüberfahren.

Auf einem Kreisel weiden Pferde, in einem anderen Kreisel in der Innenstadt hält ein Bus an und lässt die Leute aussteigen. Der Verkehr stockt, die Leute wollen eben vorwärtskommen. Es hupt an allen Ecken und Enden. Die Autos fahren weiter, wir sind immer noch im Kreisel. Da schlängelt sich ein Inlineskater durch die Autos, dort laufen gerade drei vier Schafe auf die andere Strassenseite. Die Autos weichen dem Esel aus, der sich auch noch in das Treiben mischt. Ich amüsier mich und schlängle mich mit meinem schlanken Töffli zwischendurch. Oh, da kommt noch ein Töffli. Ich schliesse mich gleich an, und so geht es doch flott voran, vorbei an der roten Ampel, die nur optional als Verkehrshilfe dient und einen Hinweis auf allfällige Autos geben könnte.

Die Landschaft um Fes ist Wun-der-schön. Leicht hügelig, mit markanten Landschaftsdetails wie Antennen, Minarette, Mauern, Ruinen, Felder, Palmen und Kakteenfeldern.

Was kommt nach dieser Kurve?

Und was kommt nach diesem Hügel? Noch etwas weiter. Nur noch ein Hügel. Wie lange das Benzin wohl reicht? Ok, noch ein Hügel, dann aber umkehren. Hmm. Schon wieder zwei Kurven und Hügel mehr. Immer noch Neugierig. Die Landschaft ist einfach so toll! Ich kann nicht genug kriegen.

Ich bin am morgen die Passstrasse östlich von Fez hochgefahren, bis in ein kleines Dorf. Am Nachmittag der Strasse in den Westen gefolgt. Einfach mal los, spontan tief in die Landschaft – jaa! So macht das Freude.
Die Strasse am Ende der lieblichen Hügellandschaft erhebt sich wieder, und da stehen Wegweiser, die nach Fes zeigen. Plötzlich kommt mir alles bekannt vor. Da war ich am Morgen schon, von der anderen Seite! Wah, ich hab einen Rundgang gemacht!

Die Sonne neigt sich dem Horizont entgegen. Ein letztes mal meine Runde fahren, als Abendtour durch die malerische Landschaft.

Telefonleitungen und Antennen zieren die hügelige Landschaft. Wie bei Motocross Madness 2, nur jetzt in echt! 🙂

Das Highlight kommt aber erst:

Ein See. Die Abendsonne spiegelt sich und versinkt darin. Wow. Da stehe ich noch eine ganze Weile und geniesse den Augenblick.

Fes an ein paar Orte zum verweilen. So wie diese Ruinen auf einer Anhöhe. Ich habe hin und wieder Menschen getroffen, die sich dort ausruhen, und die mich spontan angesprochen haben. En Français, versteht sich. Und trotzdem funktioniert die Kommunikation. Ich verstehe un peu français, und mein Gegenüber a little bit of english. Und so konnten wir uns sogar 10 Minuten lang unterhalten. Das klappt schon.
Oder einisch beim Mittagessen in der Innenstadt. Der Verkäufer spricht nur Französisch. Das war aber ebenfalls kein Problem. „Manger?“ „Oui.“ „Le viande – comme ça?“ „Oui.“ Und schon hatte ich mein Essen auf dem Tisch. 🙂

Oder viele Plätzchen auf der Anhöhe selbst. Dieser kleine Hügel ist durchzogen mit Höhlen. In so eine Höhle haben mich zwei Jungs auf eine marokkanische Haschpfeife eingeladen. Ich habe nach einem stillen Plätzchen gesucht, fernab vom Trubel der Stadt. Und hier sitzen wir nun, auf einem Kamelfellteppich in einem warmen Loch und lassen den Tag ausklingen.

Das wäre alles perfekt, wenn die Marokkaner nur nicht immer so geldgierig wären… Auch die beiden Jungs, mit denen ich den Abend verbrachte, verlangten am Ende Geld. Das ist schade. Ich hätte wirklich gedacht ich hätte hier Freunde gefunden. Aber selbst Freundschaft ist hier eine kostenpflichtige Dienstleistung.

So freue ich mich, auch wieder zurück in der Schweiz zu sein. Wo Freundschaft nichts kostet, aber sehr wertvoll ist.